It's been a long time since I've eaten in a Cafe Rouge. Back in 1996, the chain seemed (to me at least) the height of chic sophistication, with its fancy oignon soup and baked camembert and saucisson. It's also a long time since I've eaten in Portsmouth. Back in 1996, the place seemed a complete dump but it turns out it's been tarted up quite a bit since then.

We arrived late in the evening. The hotel had seen better days so we headed out to Gunwharf Quay where we were told we would find Portsmouth's finest restaurants. The Quay is next to the Spinnaker Tower, which somehow looks more impressive from a distance, and is packed with chain restaurants and bars - Wagamama, Tiger Tiger, Giraffe, etc. But Cafe Rouge it was, for old times' sake.

The key to Cafe Rouge, I thought, was to keep it simple. So I went for steak and chips, while The Doctor was more adventurous and ordered boeuf bourguignon ("my very favourite", said the 14 year old waitress).

All the steaks are matured for 28 days, claims the menu, but I am pretty certain that I was served the exact same steak that I remembered from 1996. Let's not beat about the bush here, it was truly awful. Dried out, stale-tasting and served, rather oddly, with a little jug of oily vegetably water as if that could somehow rejuvenate it. The chips were good though. The boeuf bourguignon was no better than the steak, also dry and odd-tasting, and served with a block of undercooked and leathery dauphinoise potatoes.

Despite ourselves, we ordered desserts. The cherry clafouti was nice enough with a light and fluffy, if not very clafouti-like, batter. The creme brulee was very good. It was good coffee too.

The damage was £49, including two lagers and tea and coffee. Scores were 3 for food, 4 for location and 5 for the loos meaning 4 overall, must try harder.
Category