Rome suggestions

Hit me with your best Rome suggestions.

Have been several times before, but there's always more to see.

Think more The Great Beauty and less Eurotrip.

Thanks.

Next time I go, I am going to get a look at this house. These guys have had their family portraits painted by, amongst others, Titian, Raphael, Caravaggio and Velasquez (that was Uncle Pope Innocent X) .

 

"He tries not to be too precious with the palace. “We don’t let the kids play football inside but that’s the only rule"

Yes I'd like to see the Velázquez there Ronald (which Heffalump of this parish rhapsodises over).

It's on the list.

Also will try and go to the Palazzo Farnese.

Where's the national library Phoebe?

Avoid the Pantheon, the Trevi Fountain and the Spanish Steps unless you go before 09:00 a.m. as these places become utterly overcrowded - its like being in a Tube carriage during a sweaty rush-hour breakdown.  

Pinpoint your best gelateria before you go out and use the inside service to sit in comfort in the warm, paying all of Euros 1.50 extra for this privilege and waiter service.  Giolitti's is very nice.  So is the Antico Café Ruschena.  

A day at the Villa Borghese (a bit north of the traditional centre but entirely walkable) is great.  Half a day at the Doria-Pamphili mansion looking at their pictures is also great.  The recorded audio guide is spoken by the Duke himself - he used to work at Sotheby's.  

Avoid the restaurants in the Piazza Navona (the old horse-racing track once known as the Circus Maximus) as they cost double for the same food.  

The Piazza Navona was the Domitian Amphitheatre or Circus Agonalis.  The circus maximus is still there (albeit a grassy lozenge shaped field).

 

There is apparently a cool underground tour that shows you the catacombs and the ancient temple of mithras, but I have not done this.

As an aside, the statue of Neptune in the fountain in the piazza navona looks exactly like my m7 dave.  Trufax.

 

There is a statue of Hercules in the Vatican that looks exactly like montie, extra points for finding that.  (Think it is bronze and in an alcove on a stairwell.)

The Ecstasy of St. Teresa by Bernini is well worth a look - it's in a small church, Santa Maria della Vittoria on XX Settembre. Amazing baroque sculpture, nothing outside the church tells you that it's there, so there are remarkably few tourists. Although that may have changed since Dan Brown's Angels and Demons....

Catacombs are great

scuderie del quirinale has consistently great exhibitions 

da Francesco a great casual restaurant on piazza del fico which is gorgeous and buzzy 

borghese always lovely

 

Another vote for the Villa Borghese. 

Also try Divin Ostilia in one of the little backstreets nearish to the Coliseum. Fantastic tiny wine bar and brilliant pasta. Get there early for a table.