Dean Street Townhouse is the first venture between the Soho House crew and its new shareholder and money mogul, Richard Caring, so it was always going to be under a lot of scrutiny. We Brits love a hyped up failure. However, with Soho House's luxury service expertise and Caring's shrewd eye for celeb-magnet restaurants (The Ivy, Caprice, Scotts), our schadenfreude may have to wait a while longer.

Inside, the restaurant (available to the general public) is draped around a massive bar which makes it seem like an afterthought in a pub, but don't be fooled. It simply makes use of every available space, including seating at the bar for dining. On the strength of the food, they will need every seat they can lay their little hands on as we think it will be busy for some time to come.

Actually, busy doesn't quite cover it. We dined here in January (3 short months after it had opened) and it was almost offensively busy given its nouveau status and celebrity following (well we saw Max Beesley waiting for a table. He should have booked), which is why we've held off mentioning DST; we thought the fanfare would lessen and it would become more conducive to a relaxing meal over time. Doubtful. With food and service standards like this it will be popular for decades to come.

Quit your pouting Beesley - it won't help you get seated any quicker

The food really is well thought out and brilliantly executed. We had a sweetbread tart to start followed by an amazing mixed grill for which they already have a deserved reputation. Everything was cooked to perfection and plentiful in its portions. It was one of our favourite meals in London and we're confident it will be one of yours too.

Whatever else you hear about Dean Street Townhouse - latest London hotspot, celeb-spotting central, Soho House experiment - don't forget about the food. Even amongst the glitz and glam it is still manages to stand out. Oh, and say hello to Max when you go. He's probably still waiting for a table.

http://www.deanstreettownhouse.com/