Need to get two suits made

I haven't ever had suits made in the UK and would appreciate a steer.

How much do I need to spend (I'm thinking £800 to £1,000 a piece - is this entry level?) How long does it take? Most importantly, any tips where do go? 

Ta.v.much

Well, happy to take any tips of decent off the peg suits? I used to get Austin Reed which were ok. Mainly made, because I'd like to treat myself to a good suit, that looks good and I think I deserve it. 

Roderick Charles will knock you up something decent for that price range.  I've got two of theirs already and thinking about getting a third.  That price will include two pairs of trousers so they last longer.

Cheers summer sails. That's a good starting point. Which branch did you go to?

I went to their Jermyn Street one.  They've got a branch near my office on Chancery Lane but it doesn't do the made to measure stuff.

There's a chap called Dale Rhodes - works out of Yorkshire but travels to London weekly.

Are you in London/the City? If so, try Graham Browne off Bow Lane. Your budget should comfortably get you a 2-piece in most of their cloths (certainly most of the English wools they offer). You will need to spend more to get a second pair of trousers or if you opt for a fancy forrin cloth. This will be a proper bespoke (as opposed to made to measure, which I believe is what Roderick Charles offer) fully canvassed suit of excellent quality (the best I have found at that price point).

One thing I have found with GB is that they tend to give less of a steer on styling choices than other tailors. This is not a problem if you already have an idea of the cut, style etc you prefer, but it is a potential pitfall if this is the first suit you are commissioning (and possibly don't know exactly what you want). If you have an existing suit that you like, I would suggest wearing this at the first visit and subsequent fittings, so you have a reference point point. (On the plus side, they won't try to push gimmicky crap like contrast stitching - looking at you, Cad & Dandy.)

If you are planning on getting 2 suits, then I would suggest commissioning one and wearing it for a while before commissioning the 2nd. By then you will have an idea of what you might want to do differently, if anything.

Process likely to be minimum 6-8 weeks. (Although another thing I have found with GB is that is helps to be proactive - they are a bit disorganised and deadlines have a tendency to slip if they are not kept on their toes.)

that's VERY cheap for UK-made proper bespoke, particularly in London.

I know a tailor (socially) and their mates rates for bespoke is £1200+, normally £1450+

that’s at the low end of the price range. Would only be lower middle range in HK

Oliver Benjamin does very nice schmutter - has a shop just near the back entrance to The Old Bell. 

The last suit I had from GB was (I think) around £1100. And that was several years ago. So yeah, perhaps my prices are out of date and over budget.

You bunch of pretentious w*nkers. There are dozens of decent Jewish outfitters in central London who could knock you up 4 off-the-peg adjusted suits for that price.

You'll get ripped off obviously but, if you know how to haggle, less than you would by a fancy Savile Row tailor.

My suits from Graham Browne have all been bespoke. I don't remember whether they offer MTM as well - I don't think so. I'm consistently surprised at the quality they offer for the price. Obviously there is some trade off - you won't get quite as many stitches per inch as a Savile Row or equivalent tailor. But I find they're more than satisfactory for work suits and well worth the additional cost compared with the single MTM suit *shudder* I once made the mistake of buying.

Gresham Blake in the Laines, Brighton. 

 

You can look like Rag n Bone man on his wedding day. 

Tom James.

A fully fitted suit from a decent saville row tailor will cost you at least five to six time what you are looking at.

I always tell people to invest in shirts first.  The difference is marked.

Dege and Skinner have their own cutter and can provide you with a blank to wear in the shower etc.

Tecco's tackle must be out of shot at all times because of the official secrets act.  He has actually had the whole area tattooed so that it is pixelated to the naked eye.

What is the difference between made to measure and bespoke?

I have an excellent geezer down in Sussex who makes shirts for Saville Row but also sells directly if you're introduced to him.

A blank - an ‘about right size’ shirt you wear which when you shower in it for like a week, will perfectly show your body shape to whoever is cutting your shirts....

Bespoke is fully hand made, starting from a piece of cloth cut by the cutter to your personal measurements

MTM means the cloth is cut (usually by a machine) to a standard block, and then adjusted to your measurements.

A few years ago Savile Row (annoyed at the hijacking of the term "bespoke" by MTM outfits) tried to give it a sort of denomination of control meaning by saying a bespoke suit must take 70+ hours of work by people with certain training, be made onsite etc. Not sure how much effect this had.

I am now thinking of the episode of friends where Ross visits Joey's tailor.

Does the tailor get into the shower with you, to check the fit?

Heh the cutter is female i believe, but no, she doesn’t.

 

I now have this vision of Tecco in the shower with his tailor checking which way he dresses and cupping his tackle to assess the volume to be built into the crotch of the trousers.

I have had several suits made 'from scratch' over the years and never been massively impressed with the fit or quality of work.  A couple had to go back a few times to make them 'right'.

Best suit I have is from Hackett in Westfield.  They have them all in store and will tailor them to fit once you have found one you like.  

 

Cheers for the tips all, especially kingfaff and summers. I am in the City and will take a look at these. Now I need to lose my paunch pdq.

Used to be some HK outfit who would spend certain days in London Hotels measuring you up and then getting them made in HK - well under 1k.   Not seen any ads for a while though.

although the vanity required to spend more than £1000 on an item of clothing makes my eyes water these days tbh (although was guilty of this myself in my late 20s).

Guy - Lots of those guys still operate, I think. If you can find one that comes personally recommended by someone who has used them, it's probably a good shout. There are also London-based tailors who outsource the work to India etc (eg: http://whitcombandshaftesbury.com/brand/classic_suits.html)

EP - were your "from scratch" suits bespoke or MTM, out of interest? In any case, there is a lot to be said for buying off the peg and having the suit adjusted, if you can find a manufacturer whose standard cut fits your body shape (and assuming you can get the a 2nd pair of trousers, which alas often you cannot).

This is fact prompted me to call my tailor to make sure I wasn’t imagining it.

Wear it in the shower was an off cuff (heh!) remark made to me about twenty years ago that somehow I took on board.  Wash and wear is the way forward, and yes sure shower with it to before it is due to be washed.

I have 160 shirts, 60% of which are white.  Wash and wear doesn’t really work well for me.

Almost all of tecco's imaginary shirts have black tipped collars.  And ruffles.  He wears them mostly with his blue velour DJ

i heard tecco’s wednesday shirt invented google maps

WW Chan visit London a few times a year and the work I have seen from them was v good indeed.

Think they are in your price range.

Tecco, did that tailor also tell you to fit sky hooks and use tartan paint to redo your bathroom whilst wearing your blank?

Many off-the-peg English suits are terrible and ugly. They cannot be worn buttoned up so they hang open, showing too much shirt, and the tie swings when walking. Indeed, most British politicians and many solicitors are badly dressed. So is Inspector Lewis of the Oxford murder squad.

Also, in many suits these days there is not enough room in the crotch area and that area gets frayed very quickly. I once had some Crombie suits bought from Army and Navy in Victoria Street  and the trousers didn't last for very long and the inner lining of the jackets didn't either. The lining also was cheap and in summer the perspiration created white stains in the lining. Awful.

A classic (rather than fashionable) dark French or Italian suit is better. If you observe many French and Italian politicians, they are much better dressed than their shabby English counterparts. Boris Johnson is one of the worst examples. 

On the jacket, it is better three front working buttons from the breastbone, midriff and lower belly for single-breasted suit. 

The English Bar is better dressed. Dark suit. White double-cuff shirt. Dark tie. 

I haven't got the budget now, but I possess two dark  Italian-made suits - of the style mentioned above - which I bought in Paris for 600Eur each in les soldes.

Savile Row? No. That's overdoing it, unless one is the Prince of Wales or fools like Rees-Mogg.

 

3 ducks 13 Feb 20:21

Can you suggest any of these Jewish tailors? With London rents as they are I'm surprised they could afford to operate. Will they do o-t-p rather than m2m?

If you see my post above, I like the Franco-Italian, not the English cut with the jacket flapping in the breeze with buttons that don't fasten, or where only the top one does, and one sees the tie poking out underneath.

Generally speaking, following on from bad examples, US politicians are badly attired also, with Trump being the worst, followed by Republicans. The bad navy suit with red tie is dreadful. 

This is the first thread on rof to make me laugh out loud in months 

I reckon 90% of MTM suits I have seen worn in the city look average to crap. Unless you find a really good tailor* and know what looks good on you, spending large amounts of cash on expensive suits is just about the biggest waste of money I can think of. Especially as the vast majority of people who see you wear it will not know or care about your suit.

* I have not yet found a good mid-range tailor and cannot afford top end, so afraid I cannot recommend one. I have found an off the peg range that pretty much fits me perfectly and I can get over the slightly inferior material as the suits are cheap enough to change regulaly. 

Carer(covering eyes): I see you’ve got your imaginary suit on again Mr Tecco, is there any chance you could put on a gown?

Tecco: how dare you, this was cut by Hawkes of Savile Row. Now find my OBE so I can wear it into town.